Mount Everest 3D

Jost Kobusch ends his expedition

hannes — Fri, 04 Mar 2022 14:46:51 +0000

After the expedition is before the expedition

Jost Kobusch has ended his winter-solo expedition on Mount Everest. He spent 2.5 months on- and off the mountain, trying to reach the West Ridge and surpass his highpoint of February 2020 of almost 7.300 m. This time unfortunately he faced continous strong winds, which didn’t allow him to push any further than 6.464 m. Despite not being able to reach his goal of 8.000 m, Jost seemed to be in good spirits throughout the expedition, stating he is there to learn and gain experience, that would eventually allow him to successfully complete his ambitious project.

Following his journey was exciting nevertheless and we won’t be surpriesed, if we see him back on the mountain next winter.

Adaptions

Jost made a couple of interesting adaptions compared to his last attempt. One major change was setting up his BC close to Lobuche at the Pyramid International Laboratory at 5.050 m. This meant a greater distance to the mountain, roughly a day’s march away from the normal BC at the foot of the Khumbu Glacier. On the other hand, it but must have helped him deal some two of the biggest issues of winter-solo exeditions by providing warmth, comfort and company.

He then set up an advanced BC close to the standard BC (which was obviously empty, Jost’s tent was the only one).

A next major change was the route he chose up to Lho La pass. He chose a path left of his previous attempt and set up C1 left of the serac @ 5.713 m, sheltered by the surrounding vertical rock face. Later in the expedition, on February 22th, he was able to reach C1 in one single, 15 h-push from the pyramid, which allowed further optimizations of his initial routine. Consequently he was able to completely skip C2 on Lho La pass (6.000 m) which, due to its exposure, was particularily vunerable to the strong winds. By the end of January, his tent got destroyed in one of the windier nights forcing Jost to retreat back to BC.

C3 was set up at around 6.464 m, half way up the West Ridge and sheltered from the threatening seracs by a smal rock belt. Jost reached C3 two times, at the beginning of January and by the end of February and spent multiple nights up there, waiting for a favourable weather window in order to push further up the mountain. Unfortunately that never occured and in between, the strong winds completely prevented any further action.

He eventually retreated, collecting his broken tent at former C2 and safely got back to BC.

Interactive map: Live Tracking Winter 2022

Jost Kobusch - second attempt on Everest West Ridge

“Visiting the routes virtually and evaluating options step by step in combination with tour reports was very valuable for my preparation – at the same time, the 3D live tracking made communication a lot easier and helped many people to participate”

(Jost Kobusch)

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Jost Kobusch – Everest West Ridge 2021/2022

hannes — Tue, 23 Nov 2021 08:45:21 +0000

Follow Jost live!

Jost Kobusch is back in the Himalaya and has big plans: In winter 2019/2020, Jost reached a highpoint of almost 7.300 m on the rarely climbed Everest West Ridge. This winter he is back again, solo and without supplemental oxygen. He will be sending us his live positions with his tracking device Garmin inReach Mini which is currently set to a 1-hour-intervall.

You can follow his exciting and ambitious journey in our Live Tracker!

As part of his acclimatization program, Jost was already able to summit Purpung Himal (6.500 m), an unclimbed 6000er in the Annapurna region.

Screenshot from Jost’s previous attempt on Everest West Ridge (2019/2020).
The blue dots are his GPS positions.

Mount Everest via the West Ridge

Voriger

Winter expedition on Everest West Ridge (2019/2020) – BC to C1

From BC to C1

Jost stated, that this years goal would be reaching a highpoint of 8000 m. This would be the highest point ever reached in winter on the West Ridge:

“I want to reach 8,000 meters of altitude. The highest altitude ever reached in winter on the West Ridge was 7,500 meters (in the winter of 1984/85 by a French expedition). Even if I do manage to cross that milestone, it would be a success in some way.”

Before that, he will first have to make his way up to col Lho La, which is an expedition itself. In 2020 he set up C1 on the col at approx. 6.050 m. This time, he set up C1 further down, claiming it would be “more efficient”. According to his gps positions, his route up to the col has also changed, bypassing both the vertical step above the snowfield and the bottom part of the serac on the left, ultimately reaching C1 at 5.713 m.

These changes are probably partly based on his experiences in 2020 when part of the serac collapsed, luckily without him being anywhere close.

Col Lho La (C2)

Col Lho La is a high plateau between Khumbutse and Mount Everest, covered by glaciers and heavily exposed to wind and potential avalanches from both sides. In 1974 a french team was swept away by an avalanche when trying to find a direct route up to the West Ridge, resulting in six deaths.

C2 is located on the col at around 6.000. It is a bit further down and south of 2020’s C1, possibly trying to evade the serac high above and better protected from the wind. Jost will yet again have to dig as deep into the snow as possible, to establish a solid place for his tent and hope it can withstand the winter storms.

The winds are one of the determining factors up here. In winter 2020 Jost had to battle wind speeds over 100 km/h and his tent got destroyed. Jost stated, that a solid weather window with wind speeds up to max. 40 km/h is mandatory. Otherwise, there is no chance of moving up any further.

Beforehand, the acclimatization process requires a couple of cycles between C2 and BC, spending a couple of nights in C1 on the way.

Jost preparing 2020’s C1 on Lho La (6.050 m), January 2020

(Jost Kobusch)

Voriger

Winter expedition on Everest West Ridge (2019/2020) – C1 to C2

From C2 to C3

Next, a steep, triangle-shaped rock face needs to be climbed in order to reach the beginning of the West Ridge, that lies 1.200 m above. In terms of dimensions, this wall alone compares to the great North Face of the Grandes Jorasses, but less steep (on average 45°). A couple hundred meters up the wall, a steep and rocky belt stretches horizontally from one side to another, creating a challenging obstacle.

In 1979, a strong team from Yugoslavia took the direct line up the ridge, passing the hanging glacier at 6.500 m on the right and proceeded to reach the summit in May 1979.

In our 3D map it appears, that there could be an easier passing on the far left side, making use of a snowy section on the North Ridge. This would require a long traverse beforehand but might me line of least resistance. We assume that Jost made use of this passage on his last attempt, but no GPS samples where sent for that section. Above, a smaller rocky section can be passed on the right side, leading up to C3 on 6.800 m, still a couple of hours below the ridge but protected by the surrounding rocky fins.

This year though, it appears as if Jost is looking for a more direct way straight through the central part of the wall, as his positions from January 2nd and 4th show. He noted that there was a lot of icefall which he is trying to evade on the far left side of the serac.

The West Ridge

In Februar 2020 Jost reached his highpoint at the beginning of the ridge at 7.300 m and afterwards climbed back to C2 in an 8 hour push.

This time, in order to reach his goal, the beginning of the Hornbein Couloir @ 8.000 m, he would probably have to establish C3 somewhere on the ridge. That means carrying a lot more weight up the ridge and also some more trips down to the lower camps in order to get properly acclimatized. Up here, in the so called death zone above 7000 m, the body doesn’t regenerate anymore and the lack of oxygen will become more and more problematic. Finding a suitable place for the tent will be even harder than on Lho La, since the ridge is more exposed and higher up in an area, where during that time of the year, the winter jetstreams are raging relentlessly.

The headwall beyond the ridge

Originally, Jost planned C4 at the end of the ridge at approx. 7.650 m. From here, the original West Ridge route from Tom Hornbein and Willy Unsoeld (1963) traverses left into the northwest face and summit pyramid of Everest.

A rocky section is followed by a snow/icefield that leads up to 8.000 m, where the Hornbein Couloir cuts traight through the steep headwall, around 45°- 50° steep. The difficulty of the couloir and the rocky section below will largely depend on snow coverage

For a summit attempt, a fifth camp would be necessary at around 8.000 m.

Photos from Jost's Everest expedition (winter 2019/2020)

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Jon Gupta with a series of 8000er peaks

hannes — Mon, 22 Nov 2021 12:05:47 +0000

In 2021’s Live Tracking we followed British Expedition Guide Jon Gupta on his series of high altitude ascents in the Himalaya and Karakorum. Jon can look back upon an incredibly successful year 2021, starting with the Everest & Lhotse Double on May 11th and 12th.

An attempt on Makalu, just a few weeks later, was unfortunately stopped in camp 3 @ 7.500 m. Poor decision making by a third party prevented the team from making use of the small weather window for a summit attempt. A couple of weeks later, Jon and his client where already working their way up the steep slopes and ridges of K2, the second highest and most demanding 8000er, summiting on July the 28th.

From the Karakorum he then moved on to the Tian Shan and a serious attempt on the demanding Jengish Chokusu (7.439 m) followed, that was only stopped a mere 200 m below the summit.

The disappointment was only short lived, as Jon was able to summit Manaslu (8163 m) alongside his client Becks Ferry, only a few weeks later. A déjà-vu experience followed on Dhaulagiri, when waist deep snow forced Jon to turn arround, once again just 200 m below the summit. Their positions can be reviewed here.

Jon’s outstanding year was topped off by a speed ascent on Ama Dablam and another summit success with a client, shortly after

Interactive map: Live Tracking 2021

Jon Gupta and Becks Ferry @ Everest, Lhotse & Makalu

(Jost Kobusch)

Gallery: Everest & Lhotse Double 2021 by Jon Gupta and Becks Ferry

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Mera Peak (5.806 m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:56:43 +0000

Khongma Tse (previously Mehra Peak) is a tall, 5,000 m summit rising over Khumbu glacier and belongs to the long mountain range that leads to Nuptse’s southeast ridge. As with Pokalde, Khongma Tse is accessible via Kongma Pass and is considered to be one of the more demanding trekking summits. Starting from the two glacial lakes at the pass, the trail follows the south face up and over numerous moraines. The terraced glacier can then be traversed along either of its sides. These lead to a snowy, rocky ridge that takes you to the peak. The view from here is striking, in particular towards Nuptse’s imposing south face, over Khumbu glacier, Pumori, Ama Dablam and out in the distance, over Makalu.

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Nangkartsang Peak (5.072m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:55:26 +0000

Nangkartsang Peak is an attractive outlook point situated some 700 m over Dingboche. Nagkartsang is not a true summit, but rather part of the south east ridge that leads to Pokalde. A well-defined trail follows the gradual and later steep mountain ridge up to the peak.

Nangkartsang is a favourite amongst those “collecting” 5,000 m summits and an ideal ascent for acclimatization purposes. The view from the top is also not bad: from here, Ama Dablam towers majestically, directly across the valley. As compensation for Mount Everest which is hidden by Nuptse at this point, those arriving here have an excellent view of Lhotse and Makalu in all their glory.

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Pokalde Peak (5.806 m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:53:39 +0000

Pokalde Peak was first summited in 1953 and is often overlooked, despite its central location and excellent views over Nuptse, Pumori and Ama Dablam. This mountain is particularly suited for acclimatization tours, thanks to its relatively low degree of difficulty (both technically and in terms of required condition). Those looking to climb Pokalde should wait for fair weather, as certain stretches are hazardous and can only be traversed on days with good visibility. Various ascents lead up to the 5,806 m peak, but the majority of trekkers opt for the shorter trail. This version starts in Kongma La Pass (5,528 m) and follows the northern ridge.

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Lobuche East (6.119 m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:52:20 +0000

This trek starts at Lobuche Base Camp, at 5,200 m. Those arriving here will have travelled the same path as that to Everest Base Camp (see description here), but ended their journey shortly after Thokla Pass at the tongue of Khumbu Glacier. Alternatively, some may have ventured up and over Cho La Pass (read more here).

The ascent to Lobuche East is considered a demanding trek. From Lobuche Base Camp, you travel up along the mountain’s shoulder to reach the southwest ridge at approx. 5,600 meters. This ridge is chiselled at an approximate 45° incline and leads to summit ridge at 5,900 m. From here, a more forgiving slope leads through some 300 elevation meters, past the false summit, and on to Lobuche Summit.

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From Gokyo to Lobuche

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:49:12 +0000

Gokyo-Lobuche - Day 1

Start: Gokyo (4,750 m), Goal: Dragnag (4,700 m)
Distance: 4 km, Duration: 4 hours

The trail from Gokyo heads over Ngozumpa Glacier and ends in Dragnag , taking you up and over the glacier, till, rocks and the underlying ice. The desolate landscape provides a unique experience and leaves travellers with a lasting impression. Although the traverse always follows a zig-zag pattern, the path across the glacier itself changes from year to year. Expect to see numerous kettle lakes and a show of falling ice as the glaciers dive into the grey-green waters below.

Gokyo-Lobuche - Day 2

Start: Dragnag (4,700 m), Goal: Dzonglha (4,843 m)
Distance: 8 km, Duration: 9 hours

Start your ascent to Chola Pass (5,420 m) early in the morning. The trek continues in A barren landscape with large, dark brown rock between two mountain sides. Here you will follow along the stream’s path. As you walk, the steep, rocky cwm that leads to the pass lies ahead of you. Icy temperatures tend to dominate the morning weather on this track, thanks to the trail’s position in the shade. Upon reaching the pass over boulders and serpentine trails, and given the proper weather conditions, you should be warmed by the sun and able to see the neighbouring valley. Porters rush by over ice and snow, heavily-laden and sporting shoes with no tread. From here, the trail continues on a sharp descent through almost 600 meters of elevation. Hikers should exercise caution here, as this stretch can be particularly slippery at times. After a final spurt uphill, you will have arrived in Dzonglha where you can hopefully land one of the few rooms available to travellers.

Gokyo-Lobuche - Day 3

Start: Dzonglha (4,843 m), Goal: Lobuche (4,930 m)
Distance: 6 km, Duration: 2 hours

Sunshine streaming through a frozen window pane wakes you to a world coated in frost . Today’s first task entails crossing a stream. The bridge to the other side consists of two thin tree trunks, but with some courage and a little gusto, the four meters are quickly overcome. From here, you will travel along the high valley, past the yellow base camp tents and on to Lobuche. An expansive, turquoise lake appears shortly hereafter. Further along the way, you will come across the broad path that leads to Everest Base Camp, which eventually merges with the current trail. Finally, the rocky valley is surrounded by brown mountain sides and Pumori’s white peak towers just before Lobuche.

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Kala Patthar (5.545 m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:43:24 +0000

Kala Patthar

Start: Gorak Shep (5,171 m), Goal: Kala Patthar (5,545 m)
Distance: 10 km, Duration: 5 hours

From Gorak Shep, one can climb the 5,545 meter high Kala Patthar or “Black Stone”. Kala Patthar is not officially recognized as a mountain in Nepal, thanks to its relatively low elevation and its position as a smaller peak on the ridge to neighboring Pumori (7,167 m). Even still, the route is one of the most popular peaks for many visitors and various trekking companies. The full climb from Gorak Shep should take about 2 hours.

Along the way, a number of landings allow for rest but the climb consists predominantly of steep inclines. Although the hike traverses through a mere 400 meters of altitude, you should also expect to feel a sobering reminder of your position above 5,000 meters with every step you take. Once you arrive at Khala Patthar’s peak, you will be rewarded with an excellent view of the west side of Mount Everest, the north wall and the west ridge.

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Gokyo Peak (5.360 m)

hannes — Wed, 24 Mar 2021 07:32:56 +0000

Gokyo Peak - Day 1

Start: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), Goal: Dhole (4,100 m)
Distance: 10 km, Duration: 7 hours

The trail leading from Namche Bazaar to Gokyo is just two meters wide and embedded in a mountainside that verges on the vertical. This masterpiece was constructed by many diligent Nepalese and leads through low-lying vegetation. Along the way, the white peaks of Ama Dablam and Thamserku may even be visible, depending on the weather conditions. Cloud forests with four-meter-high rhododendrons and braided tree canopies line the way further ahead. Mondara Pass is a good stop to take a break and eat lunch. Half an hour later and 300 meters lower, you will reach Phortse Tanga before heading the short distance downhill to Dhole.

Gokyo Peak - Day 2

Start: Dhole (4,100 m), Goal: Machhermo (4,430 m)
Distance: 5 km, Duration: 3 hours

Soon after Dhole, you will have passed the treeline and find yourself on another path cut into the valley’s side. Two hours on, you will have reached Louza, where a small plateau fans out ahead. Machermo marks the next stop on the tour, about a half hour’s trek down the road. The small valley offers a welcome windbreak and a medical clinic for those seeking care

Gokyo Peak - Day 3

Start: Machhermo (4,430 m), Goal: Gokyo (4,750 m)
Distance: 7 km, Duration: 4 hours

The 3.5 hours to Gokyo begin here. The landscape gradually becomes more level until you arrive at a sort of highland plateau. From here, two lakes pass until Gokyo’s houses finally appear at the third. Keep in mind that the thin air and lack of sunshine will result in considerably slower movement and a challenge to keep warm.

Gokyo Peak - Day 4

Start: Gokyo (4,750 m), Goal: Gokyo Ri (5,360 m)
Distance: 2 km, Duration: 3 hours

Those looking to climb to the outlook point nearby are well-advised to get an early start. The trail follows the mountainside on a slight incline and over low, scraggy grass. After some three hours of walking in what feels like slow-motion, you will arrive at the peak, laced with prayer flags. At this point, you should see a number of 8,000 meter peaks: Cho Oyu with its glacier, Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu along with many other six- and seven-thousand-meter peaks. Take your time to take in and enjoy the view over these imposing summits.

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